Take a look at a nice little video to give you a better idea of what the London Streetwear scene looks like. Big up Benjart for coming a long way and really just bringing his stuff to the next level this time around (as we mentioned in our recap).
The show was another cracking success, and if you look closely you can catch my hair and face in a few of the shots early on. We’ll be looking forward to another edition of the Reset real soon and who knows… if we get our act together maybe we will have some product on show for The Reset V.
Saturday saw the return of the heavily anticipated third installment of “Nike Reset.” The event takes place bi-annually at the Nike 1948 space in Shoreditch and is host to some of the biggest up-and-comers in the streetwear industry. Past installments have helped a number of big streetwear brands really gain a foothold in the market. It acts both as launch pad for the newcomers and back-to-basics opportunities for core fans to get their hands on the latest and greatest from the likes of Trapstar who just keeps coming back for more year in and year out. Other perennial favorites at the event include “Art in Transit” aka AinT, TrinoTron and Second Son.
The faces have changed a bit and unfortunately two of our personal favourites (Carri Munden of Cassette Playa and the Dope Chef / Currency crew) were nowhere to be found this year but the new guys came out fighting this year… and I do mean fighting. After an early morning tuffle between a couple of the guys workin for Trapstar at the event and the two guys consequently not being allowed into the event things finally got kicked off properly a full two hours late.
By the time the gates were opened to the masses the queue had grown substantially and given the mad rush towards the Trapstar booth the Nike security gang had to limit the numbers in and out for a good bit. Trapstar was definitely the “main event” in as much as there was one dropping some new heat with tensions running high inside as well. In addition to a number of limited and seriously fresh originals, the usual “Dream Team” and other classics from the past were available as well.
Additionally, the crew was taking pre-orders for the chinos set to drop this summer. These were some nice lookin trousers with a big red button on the bag and some beautifully blue and white lined pockets. No word yet on pricing, but the fact that they were taking waiste, length and style preference from kids unabashedly makes me think these will be some of the hottest and most exclusive threads for this summer. I pulled the nice young lady aside who was folding up the shirts and popping them in the “Heat Wave” boxes for all the yung’uns and she couldn’t help but agree that things are going well when you can sell an item without even telling people what they’re gonna cost. If the collared shirts they are selling at £70+ a pop are any indication, you’d better start saving your gallions if you wanna be wearin these this summer.
Setting aside the old timers, I thought it would be worth focussing a bit of attention on the breakout labels of the show. Interest was moderate to newcomer “Ask Your Girl” who toe the controversial line well. Whilst their designs incorporate nearly pornographic cartoon depictions of girls they are right in pointing out that there are two sides to every story. The caption under a young lady’s silhouette (legs spread with a star covering her goodies) is “everyday a star is born” and if you look closely, you can even see the girl holding up a globe. One of the founders of the brand argued that it’s alla bout how you look at things, and while someone might look at the design and see a dirty image, it was actually quite empowering. He also argued that the name “Ask Your Girl” is also intended in the vein of “Girl Power” and empowering women. It’s catch and provides a bit of wordplay, but he insists the line isn’t supposed to refer to what you might think at first blush and it’s supposed to encourage men to care more about what their Girl is thinking.
Without putting on my feminist hat too much and hating for the implications of the possesive on Your Girl will give him the benefit of the doubt. I didn’t bother pushing his buttons too hard on the double-meaning of the hats they were pushing that simply read “Player” but I’m sure there’s a good story in it as well.
Setting aside what the intentions of the label are, I think there’s a lot that can be done with this idea and thought the designs were dope. I was feeling the reversible jumper the most, but the “Ask Your Girl” logo available in loads of world cup colors (the U.S. seemingly left out on purpose) was a nice touch as well.
In addition to the nice pieces that Ask Your Girl had on offer the winner for this year’s “best in show” goes to my man Benjart. His pieces were the highest quality of all the new comers, the designs were super tight and the crew knows how to hussle. Shirts seemed to be flying off the rails, varsity jackets were being pulled out from nowhere and deals were being made all over the place. In addition to winning “best in show” as the best newcomer repping, Benjart also gets my nod for best single design. Whilst the woman screaming/pop-art horror design seemed to be popping up left, right and center (with a nod from Art in Transit, Trapstar and Benjart) I think Benjart made the most of it by incorporating the image into his soon-to-be-famous B-splash design.
Bonus points for the Benjart crew getting the troops rallied and hyped up on Twitter before, during and after the show as well. I’m looking forward to big things from the brand.
All told, the even was a reminder of how vibrant the underground streetwear community is here in London. There were familiar faces on both sides of the booths, kids I seen queueing for Yeezy’s over a year ago and plenty of newcomers as well. This had to be the least well organised Reset I’ve seen yet, but it was worth the wait and I’m looking forward to covering another soon! There’s no better place than London for the freshest and newest and hardest to find– just ask MIA, Rihanna and all the others repping these young and exclusive brands.
My own images will be up here shortly. In the meantime, check out some of the above links, flag me down on Twitter and be sure you’re following Benjart as well for the latest news.
After finishing the morning rounds it is time for a quick check in on what there is to see and what is grabbing the most attention. As a first note on trending this year, leather accents are everywhere. While it seemed like this was a big trend in menswear last year it has taken root with the ladies as well. Women’s trousers with cotton fronts and leather backs (a bit bizarre but quite nice).
Maria Francesca Pepe Presentation
Another plus- people definitely seem to be pushing the ethical angle wherever possible. We all know how bad greenwashing can be for industry and it will be no better for fashion, but the fact that so many brands are trying to market themselves as ethical at least shows there is demand for the ethical clothing market (a big plus for me and for fashion in general).
Newgen is where it’s at. The exhibition portion of the show features a number of high end designers and some middle of the table “not quite there yet” brands. But the newgen section is unbelievable and the future is looking very bright for British fashion. This initiative by the British Fashion Council was a great idea and is paying huge dividends. Favorites from the newgen section include: Mary Katranztzou, KTZ, Maria Francesca Pepe, Craig Lawrence and Christopher Raeburn.
Raeburn is a class guy to talk to and in his third season he is already being featured at Liberty’s (among others). His recycled military wear is absolutely sick. He has taken some normal shapes and turned them on their head by using bright transclucent recycled parachutes and chopped up and remixed felt and leather from 50’s motorcycle jackets. Raeburn was nothing short of a gentleman and quite encouraging to me as a young part-time designer.
Comfort Station, gorgeous jewelery led by an absolute sweetheart of a designer Amy Anderson, was another highlight of the show. Her jewelry is all made in London (right over on Brick Lane) and this season was inspired by “the impossible”. In addition to great gold and wood work, she has done some pretty bad ass stuff with laser cutting and etching as well. Look out for an interview either here or on an upcoming ethical fashion blog I’ll be guest posting for (more on that later).
I will be sure to throw up some more images once I can get my hands on some high-res versions and will offer a fuller outlook on some of these brands as well.
Next stop(s): The Designer Showcase, On/Off and the Belle Sauvage runway.
Today, we sit down with another one of our favorite designers: Mike Maher of Taylor Stitch. The boys over at Taylor Stitch have been on a mission to make men look good and wear clothes that fit… and they have been successful. Taking on an attitude of “I have nothing to lose but a little bit of money” the gang jumped in full bore and have been in the custom shirtmaking business for over a year now.
Mike and the gang have worked hard on collaborating with some of their peers and make clothes designed for everyman. After hosting a recently hugely successful event in San Francisco called “Man Up!” with Durable Goods Concern. Mike sat down to answer our questions about what the goals of Taylor Stitch are for the upcoming year and big trends in menswear to be looking out for in 2010.
Twitter Sized Biography
We live in San Francisco, enjoy nice things, the great outdoors and being friendly.
What got you started doing this?
My business partner Barrett and I could never find shirts that fit us. We are what we think to be rather standard sized guys at 5’9″ 165 lbs. We wanted interesting details and incredible construction so we started seeking that out. Whether it is the fabrics or the subtle intricacies that make it a great shirt, we just became quickly obsessed over how great it is to have something that is so nice fit you so well.
How long have you been doing what you do?
We have been doing it for a year or so developing our manufacturing relationships and making sure we are producing garments of the highest possible quality. It took us a little while to find people we were happy to have manufacturing our goods in the U.S.A.
-Rapid Fire Section-
If you could do a collaboration with anyone who would it be?
Beckel Canvas because I am already doing an undercover project with Pierrepont Hicks. I’d also like to do something with Monocle because they put out the best magazine in the world right now.
Biggest accomplishment thus far?
Putting together one hell of a Man Up SF event with the Durable Goods Concern because it really slingshotted TS along with it
Favorite flavour of ice cream?
Ben and Jerry’s Limited Edition Key Lime Pie. I hope they keep it around for a while.
Song of the moment?
I can’t begin to name one song. Discovery – Osake Loop Line is playing in the background right now. Does that work?
Favorite musician of the moment?
I’m plugging my boys Assembly of Dust for Reid’s nasaly voice and great lyrics.
Pance Party are an electro trio who have had some big success with a number of their tracks and remixes. They are regulars on the charts over at The Hype Machine, a site dedicated to the most blogged about artists.In addition to their chart topping bangers (most successfully their remix of The Presets’ Kicking and Screaming), Pance Party has been sharing studio space with the likes of Journey, Bloc Party and Phoenix in their 20,000 sq. ft. warehouse-cum-sick pad in San Francisco. Along with friend Sticky K the gang have formed the “Super Best Friends Club” in their HQ which is fast becoming a hangout for designers, artists, musicians and all sorts in the Bay Area.
In case you missed the first part of the interview we posted yesterday, have a quick read through of the first part of Crockstar’s exclusive interview with Pance Party. In addition to finding out a bit more about the guys behind Pance Party we got a clear look at some of their influences (based on their responses to “what is the song of the moment?”) and a better idea about what makes these guys tick.
Without further ado, here comes part deux of the interview, buckle your safety belts!
How long have you been doing what you do?
Eric: That’s an interesting question to ask a musician, but I’ll do my best to answer. Pance Party will have its first birthday on Jan 31. So about a year.
Andy: We’ve been doing it just long enough to not have life-shattering drug addictions… but hey, hopefully we’ll get there.
What got you started doing this?
Swardy: College. A new found appreciation for dance parties fed a craving to write and produce music. Electro was the perfect fit.
Andy: Our mutual love of puppies, three-part harmony, and the Taco Bell dollar menu.
Who are some of the people you admire within the music industry?
Andy: Our favorite producer right now has to be Wolfgang Gartner, but we all have raging music boners for Siriusmo and SebatiAn.
Swardy: Mostly just Skerrit Bwoy. But if I had to name others… I’d go with Fake Blood for his elusive sound (and identity). **
I know you were at one point talking about having a European tour (I think at one point we were even talking about coordinating it with the official launch party of the line before I got seriously delayed)… still hoping to conquer Europe?
Swardy: Ya see, here at Pance Party HQ, we have a common dream: meeting folks from every walk and gauging their facial response to sternum shattering electro. While european gigs are plentiful and clearly appropriate, these days we find ourselves wondering: how will the children of inner mongolia react to wretch-worthy bass lines? Does that make sense?
Andy: Well we just signed with Miles Dyson’s Plasmapool label in Germany, so we’re getting excited about a European tour happening soon. Other than that, we’re planning a big EP release tour across several Chevy’s Mexican restaurants in the midwest.
Eric: Yeah, hope to move the Pance Party to Berlin in the near future actually.
What are your big goals for 2010? You had a pretty successful 2009, what would you like to improve upon this year?
Andy: Our number one goal is to score an endorsement deal with Subway Restaurants. Their combination of great taste and value has been the number one factor in our success so far.
Swardy: Festivals festivals festivals. We just booked SXSW and we want to keep that snow ball rollin.
Eric: I like to think of 2010 as a huge mega-anteater, but instead of eating ants, he fills himself full of Pance Party music. Basically i want to provide that giant anteater with some purchasable music.
**N.B. the lovely link above was provided care of Pance Party
Alright everyone! That wraps up this week’s interview, keep your eyes peeled for the new General Skills Re-mix Cereal from the gang over at Pance party. And, more importantly, listen to their music and buy their new EP (Kim Jong Thrill) when it’s released! I’ll keep you posted on dates as I hear ‘em.
This week we’ve got a special treat with you: an exclusive Q & A with one of the biggest up and coming electro acts… PANCE PARTY. Pance Party have been working their way up the circuits and been travelling and performing all over the US. If you get the chance to see them, definitely check them out!
We will have the rest of the interview up tomorrow, but we’ll whet your whistle this morning with the rapid-fire section of the Q&A, and tomorrow unleash a fuller look into the messed up world that is, Pance Party.
First I asked the gang (Andy, Eric and Swardy) to describe themselves in a Twitter sized biography. Apparently they missed the memo because this thing is a good 67 characters over, but what’re you gonna do?
“Ranging in style from brain-blowing bass ballads to hyper-crushed dome scorchers, Pance Party provides enough raw sonic energy to turn even the most negative Nancy into araving lunatic on the dance floor.”
On to the RAPID FIRE questions…
Who are the coolest people you’ve toured with?
Eric: Probably Maroon 5. That tour in ’98 was insane!
Andy: Chester French! I hear they get lots of women… and drugs… even though drugs are bad. Or so I’ve read.
Eric: I agree with Andy. CF.
Andy: Having Capcom give us a shout out for our “Final Fight” themed video for our remix of Chester French’s C’mon was pretty sweet.
Eric: Playing to 1500 people at the Yale-Harvard ball on Yale’s campus was fully ridiculous. The room we played in looked like the dining commons at Hoggwarts, but BIGGER. Those Yale folks really pulled a one up on those bastards in Harry Potter land.
So, that’s all for today! I think we can safely assume that Eric was full of shit on that last question, but a compliment never hurts when you’re getting some free publicity. Click here for Part II of the Pance Party interview. In the mean time, rock out and give ‘em some love over on the famous Hype Machine and try not to break Youtube watching the hilarious Chester French video.
This is the new home of the Crockstar Limited blog. The blog focuses heavily on trends in fashion music and the internet. The goal is to start an ethically sourced fashion label, but in the meantime the blog will offer insight into the world of an ADD fashion-loving internet geek.